By Easter Sunday the clocks will have advanced and our days will be getting lighter. The thirst for big, bold wines is replaced by a desire for something more elegant.

Traditional Easter lunch of roast lamb pairs perfectly with red Bordeaux. Tesco stocks the loveliest 2011 Château des Fougères La Raison Graves, a real bargain for £15. Not every branch stocks it. As we write, it is available to order online. Morrisons has some serious top end reds from France and Italy. Its 2015 Pauillac is £35 but that is reasonable for such a good vintage.

Fortnums has secured a parcel of 2002 Saint Emilion Grand Cru Chante Alouette selling at £25 which is cheaper than it is in France. All of these delicious wines would benefit from half an hour in a decanter, if you can lay hands on one. Morrisons’ The Best 2013 Rioja at £12 is stunning. Rioja is always good value but this is exceptional.

Beaujolais is versatile, light and fruity. It works well for vegetarian dishes and is a red that can be served chilled if you so desire. The humble Tesco number for a fiver is great value. Brouilly by Château des Tours retails at about £18 and is worth every penny. It is stocked by the Beckford Bottle Shop and Harvey Nichols. If you ever want to send someone a bottle, note that HN charges £5 for courier delivery whereas another merchant wanted £20. Its list is comprehensive and includes, at a price, several of Robert Parker’s 100-point bottles. Stepan Zraly who runs the London shop knows everything and is genuinely helpful (020 7201 8537).

Those who prefer poached salmon should look to pure Chardonnay. The Wine Society Kumeu Village bottling is just £10.50. The more expensive offerings from Kumeu are a match for serious Burgundy but always less expensive. Californian Chardonnay made by David Ramey is £43 at Wholefoods. It trounces French numbers costing double. Decanter magazine has praised the ubiquitous Spanish Torres Viña Sol retailing at just over £7. It is clean and light, unlike many cheaper whites which just don’t taste right.

Our latest cheap red discovery is an Italian blend, Piccini Memoro sold at £8 by both Sainsbury’s and Morrisons. It won Gold in the Decanter awards which means something. Bronze and Silver do not excite.

The most versatile bottle is Champagne. The Juice: Vinous Veritas is a collection of wine columns by Jay McInerney and is a great read. Confronted by 37 courses at El Bulli (RIP) he was advised to drink Champagne and was happy with the outcome.

We are grateful to the many who thanked us for our Christmas recommendation; the 2007 Vintage Claud Carré for just £25 at Sainsbury’s. As we write, it can still be found. A steal. A recent tasting of Lidl Champagne was disappointing. If you want a decent, cheaper bottle then look to Tesco Finest or its £14 Louis Delaunay which is seriously underpriced given the quality.