*/
We are glad to be back and have several new bottles to recommend.
Before doing so, the question of glasses needs to be addressed. There are countless shapes and sizes. A revelation has been the Riedel Swirl tumbler. It works with everything including Champagne. Olivier Krug recently said he would never drink out of a flute glass. It is much harder to knock over the Swirl and it has the contours of an Eileen Gray Bibendum chair.
The wine reference book that we swear by is Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book which is on its way to total sales of 13 million copies. Do think about buying the Kindle edition because of the superb search function. Looking for Chablis, there are 29 separate references in the book. Every mention pops up on the Kindle with a direct link to the entry. The 2026 book is available for £15.99 or less. It covers producers from around the globe, which vintages to aim for and devotes 12 pages to selecting the best wine to accompany whatever you might ever eat. Fried Eggs and Rioja by Victoria Moore is a 228-page book which covers what to drink with absolutely everything; highly recommended for any foodie.
Hedonism in Mayfair is the vinous equivalent of Santa’s grotto. It has pretty much all sorts including 51 iterations of Yquem. One might think it is fiendishly expensive, but it isn’t. At the time of writing it is the cheapest source of sublime Charles Heidsieck Champagne (vegan too) at £42 a bottle. A large department store nearby has it on for £65. If you want a bottle from a particular year to mark a significant birthday or anniversary it is likely they can help.
We know that many of our readers are members of the Wine Society. It is a noble, not-for-profit organisation and charming people based at Stevenage answer the phone should you ring. A lifetime membership costs £40 but comes with an immediate £20 credit. Unlike most retailers, there are still plenty of bottles priced at less than a tenner. Its £17 2020 Exhibition Rioja enjoyed in the summer had that delicate vanilla taste and was a steal. Delivery of even a solitary bottle is free – astonishing – and often offered the next day. If given the option do choose delivery by the Society van rather than a courier. Their drivers are responsible and would never chuck something over your wall.
What then to buy for the forthcoming holidays? The supermarket chains will run several promotions, most likely buy six or more to get 25% off. The astute purchaser can make serious savings so do be alert.
Tesco has upped its game and is strongly recommended on all fronts. Even its modest £5.80 Côtes du Rhône is glorious. Tesco Finest own-label Champagne continues to receive plaudits. If it must be a named producer, then Piper Heidsieck, which can be as little as £22 on promotion is definitely the one to get.
The Heppington 2019 Blanc de Blancs* produced by Hattingley Valley is a superb example of homemade sparkling wine from Kent.
Those celebrating Christmas with a traditional turkey or chicken are spoilt for choice when it comes to wine. Both white and lighter reds work well. The Waitrose Blueprint White Burgundy is seriously good and underpriced at £12.35 (with a half available at £7.20). The South African Chenin Blanc at £8.50, again in the Blueprint collection, is a dry white with a subtle hint of melon on the palate and will frighten no one. Spend more and get much more at Majestic with Begude Etoile Limoux Chardonnay at £16 or the Albus Famille Roux Burgundy for £27.
If it is to be red, then a decent Rioja or Pinot Noir is where one can still find quality at fair prices. The Pinot is made for duck and goose too. It need not be French. The Chilean Cono Sur, 20 Barrels, is £19 at Tesco and worth every penny. If you want a French gem, then Majestic Definition Pauillac at £26 is it. Avoid the 2021 vintage which was inferior to 2018 and 2019 in France.
The extended season may mean that visitors descend for a glass or two. Beaujolais is light to medium bodied and is underrated and underpriced. All retailers will stock it. Waitrose No.1 Beaujolais Villages is glorious at £14 while you will also find there Brouilly Domaine Tavian, a vegan and vegetarian number at the same price. Italian Barbera is ubiquitous and inexpensive. Lidl Chianti Riserva at £6.99 (not to be confused with a cheaper offering) is the best value bottle in the shop. Various supermarkets stock Piccini Memoro, a marvellous Italian red that strangely tastes of Christmas cake – in a good way. Full price £9 but acquired for £5.75 on the latest promotion.
For bubbles at about the £10 mark, seek out Crémant de Limoux or a vintage Cava.
We have taken advice on rosé. The high price is bewildering because it does not require rare grapes nor oak barrels and is sold immediately upon production. The best recommendation we heard was Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses stocked by Majestic for £12 and the inexpensive La Vieille Ferme widely available for £9. If you are a serious consumer then the Roseblood d’Estoublon at £20 is it.
The cost of dining out has increased dramatically over the last year. Restaurateurs see easy money in hefty mark-ups, triple retail or more, on every bottle. Yet again we commend the Hawksmoor Monday corkage offer as the best way to drink your favourite wines at negligible expense. The company continues despite everything to charge £5 per bottle, regardless of how large it might be.
The FT Weekend Magazine in the run-up to Christmas will feature the latest recommendations from Jancis Robinson MW, the finest wine critic on the planet. Over three weeks she will pick out the best whites, reds and dessert wines. Do pay attention.
Happy holidays and thanks to our loyal readers.
Concerned that you or someone you care about has a drinking problem? Please visit Wellbeing at the Bar at for sources of help and advice.
*Our columnists received this wine free of charge for the purpose of providing an honest and independent review.
Professor Dominic Regan @Krug79 is Head of the Knowledge Hub at Frenkel Topping. He is a visiting Professor at City Law School London and a columnist for New Law Journal. Dominic is widely regarded as an authority on wine, witness statements, Part 36 and the Jackson reforms.
We are glad to be back and have several new bottles to recommend.
Before doing so, the question of glasses needs to be addressed. There are countless shapes and sizes. A revelation has been the Riedel Swirl tumbler. It works with everything including Champagne. Olivier Krug recently said he would never drink out of a flute glass. It is much harder to knock over the Swirl and it has the contours of an Eileen Gray Bibendum chair.
The wine reference book that we swear by is Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book which is on its way to total sales of 13 million copies. Do think about buying the Kindle edition because of the superb search function. Looking for Chablis, there are 29 separate references in the book. Every mention pops up on the Kindle with a direct link to the entry. The 2026 book is available for £15.99 or less. It covers producers from around the globe, which vintages to aim for and devotes 12 pages to selecting the best wine to accompany whatever you might ever eat. Fried Eggs and Rioja by Victoria Moore is a 228-page book which covers what to drink with absolutely everything; highly recommended for any foodie.
Hedonism in Mayfair is the vinous equivalent of Santa’s grotto. It has pretty much all sorts including 51 iterations of Yquem. One might think it is fiendishly expensive, but it isn’t. At the time of writing it is the cheapest source of sublime Charles Heidsieck Champagne (vegan too) at £42 a bottle. A large department store nearby has it on for £65. If you want a bottle from a particular year to mark a significant birthday or anniversary it is likely they can help.
We know that many of our readers are members of the Wine Society. It is a noble, not-for-profit organisation and charming people based at Stevenage answer the phone should you ring. A lifetime membership costs £40 but comes with an immediate £20 credit. Unlike most retailers, there are still plenty of bottles priced at less than a tenner. Its £17 2020 Exhibition Rioja enjoyed in the summer had that delicate vanilla taste and was a steal. Delivery of even a solitary bottle is free – astonishing – and often offered the next day. If given the option do choose delivery by the Society van rather than a courier. Their drivers are responsible and would never chuck something over your wall.
What then to buy for the forthcoming holidays? The supermarket chains will run several promotions, most likely buy six or more to get 25% off. The astute purchaser can make serious savings so do be alert.
Tesco has upped its game and is strongly recommended on all fronts. Even its modest £5.80 Côtes du Rhône is glorious. Tesco Finest own-label Champagne continues to receive plaudits. If it must be a named producer, then Piper Heidsieck, which can be as little as £22 on promotion is definitely the one to get.
The Heppington 2019 Blanc de Blancs* produced by Hattingley Valley is a superb example of homemade sparkling wine from Kent.
Those celebrating Christmas with a traditional turkey or chicken are spoilt for choice when it comes to wine. Both white and lighter reds work well. The Waitrose Blueprint White Burgundy is seriously good and underpriced at £12.35 (with a half available at £7.20). The South African Chenin Blanc at £8.50, again in the Blueprint collection, is a dry white with a subtle hint of melon on the palate and will frighten no one. Spend more and get much more at Majestic with Begude Etoile Limoux Chardonnay at £16 or the Albus Famille Roux Burgundy for £27.
If it is to be red, then a decent Rioja or Pinot Noir is where one can still find quality at fair prices. The Pinot is made for duck and goose too. It need not be French. The Chilean Cono Sur, 20 Barrels, is £19 at Tesco and worth every penny. If you want a French gem, then Majestic Definition Pauillac at £26 is it. Avoid the 2021 vintage which was inferior to 2018 and 2019 in France.
The extended season may mean that visitors descend for a glass or two. Beaujolais is light to medium bodied and is underrated and underpriced. All retailers will stock it. Waitrose No.1 Beaujolais Villages is glorious at £14 while you will also find there Brouilly Domaine Tavian, a vegan and vegetarian number at the same price. Italian Barbera is ubiquitous and inexpensive. Lidl Chianti Riserva at £6.99 (not to be confused with a cheaper offering) is the best value bottle in the shop. Various supermarkets stock Piccini Memoro, a marvellous Italian red that strangely tastes of Christmas cake – in a good way. Full price £9 but acquired for £5.75 on the latest promotion.
For bubbles at about the £10 mark, seek out Crémant de Limoux or a vintage Cava.
We have taken advice on rosé. The high price is bewildering because it does not require rare grapes nor oak barrels and is sold immediately upon production. The best recommendation we heard was Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses stocked by Majestic for £12 and the inexpensive La Vieille Ferme widely available for £9. If you are a serious consumer then the Roseblood d’Estoublon at £20 is it.
The cost of dining out has increased dramatically over the last year. Restaurateurs see easy money in hefty mark-ups, triple retail or more, on every bottle. Yet again we commend the Hawksmoor Monday corkage offer as the best way to drink your favourite wines at negligible expense. The company continues despite everything to charge £5 per bottle, regardless of how large it might be.
The FT Weekend Magazine in the run-up to Christmas will feature the latest recommendations from Jancis Robinson MW, the finest wine critic on the planet. Over three weeks she will pick out the best whites, reds and dessert wines. Do pay attention.
Happy holidays and thanks to our loyal readers.
Concerned that you or someone you care about has a drinking problem? Please visit Wellbeing at the Bar at for sources of help and advice.
*Our columnists received this wine free of charge for the purpose of providing an honest and independent review.
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